When I told a displaced Texan I was headed to Houston, he had one simple piece of advice. Go eat at Goode Company Barbecue. And then do it again.

You’ll want to heed that Lone Star state wisdom. For Goode Company is the best barbecue I’ve ever tasted and I’ve done barbecue in a little renowned shack in Birmingham, Alabama. Still nothing close to Goode Company.

Go once and you’ll find yourself drifting back during your Houston trip. Suddenly every other dinner choice will be, “Well, how about barbecue?”

Forget that ribs obsession at Goode Company. They’re good here, but this is place where the brisket steals the show. The turkey barbecue is very underrated too. The potato salad is a not-to-be-missed side. Yes, this is a place where potato salad wows.

The first time you head to Goode Company, you’ll need a map. Located on Kirby at Highway 59, it’s sort of the last spot you’d expect to find an authentic barbecue joint. You’re in the middle of a strip mall stretch with Arby’s and gas stations around. Then the wood barn side appears and you pull into the tiny little parking lot.

There are picnic tables outside under an awning where almost everyone eats as cars whiz by just up the road. It’s as casual as casual can be and if it’s packed, which it often is, you’ll get to know your neighbors at the community picnic tables.

Try one of the Texas beers too. And if you’re really into the spirit, there’s a barbecue museum right next door.

When food’s this good, it deserves it own shrine.

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